05 Jun '18, 4am
Of the highest odor: Time to respect the durian
As the story spread over the Internet, I’m sure durian lovers were dismayed to see most articles painting durian in such a negative light, namely, for its notorious stench and that in several Southeast Asian countries it’s banned from public transit and hotels. But hardly any of these writers talk about the rich sweetness of durian flesh, which can have a creamy texture similar to high-quality custard or perhaps a slightly firm chocolate ganache. Durian doesn’t really have an equivalent in flavor (even though people have likened the flavor to almond or vanilla). Perhaps durian’s taste can only be captured through metaphor: it’s what would happen if a toddler invented a fruit made up of everything they like—from dinosaurs and farts to ice cream and pudding.