Admittedly, durian isn't for everyone. One of my all-time favorite writers, Anthony Burgess, compared the olfactory oddity of the spiny fruit to "eating sweet raspberry blancmange in the lavatory." I compare it more to a mash of melon and banana, with a gasoline finish. But the fresh, gooey durian that oozed from the whisper-light fried puff pastry at Chinese Cuisine skipped that aggressive ending note. The flavor was sweet and clean, tucked into the incomparably flaky pastry.